Desert Quilters of Nevada - Romancing the Desert , Quilt Show

February 8th I went to the Desert Quilters of Nevada quilt show in Henderson Nevada. These pictures are what I thought were the nicest quilts on display.

























Pictures from what I thought were the best quilts of the show.

Perfect Bindings

	Measure the outside dimensions of your quilt. You will need about 10-15 " more binding than this measurement. Fabric Requirements: Divide above number by 42 (width of fabric). This is the number of strips you will need to cut. Multiply by the width of your cut strips (2" or 2.5"). This will be how much yardage you will need for your binding. Example: 200" around quilt including 10" extra. 200/42=4.76 (Cut 5 strips) 5X2"=10" or 1/3 yd. of fabric required to bind.
	1. Cut your binding fabric from 2"-2 1/2" widths of fabric depending on your personal preference. A 2" strip, doubled equals 1 inch, minus a 1/4" seam leaves you with a perfect 1/4" binding. Great for making a perfect point at the corners. Remember: As you increase the size of your strips, you must also increase the size of the seam taken when sewing it onto the quilt. 2. Join pieces using 45 degree seams. Trim to 1/4". Press seams to one side, then press the joined strips in half, lengthwise, with wrong sides together. 3. Match the raw edges of the binding to the raw edge of your quilt sandwich (quilted top/batting/backing) starting on the bottom edge of the quilt with the end of the binding about in the middle or a little over the middle of the quilt. Start sewing about 4-6" from the first corner. (If a very small wall hanging, even closer) You may wish to use a walking foot. 4. Stitch to 1/4" from the edge (or same distance as your chosen seam allowance). Pivot with needle down and sew off the quilt at a 45 degree angle into the corner. Break the thread. ( See Binding-Mitered Corners for more information on this step) 5. Turn the binding back over itself using the 45 degree stitching as a guide so that the tail lines up straight with the next edge. Fold it straight down over itself lining up raw edges with the second side. You just mitered the corner! 6. Secure with backstitch at the beginning of the stitching and continue down the second side to the next corner. 7. Repeat these steps at each corner until all 4 are completed. After completing the last corner, stitch the ending tail 4-6" from the last corner. Secure the stitch. Joining the Ends of the Binding 1. Lay the end tail flat on the edge of the quilt. If it is longer than the side of the quilt, cut it off just shy of where you started the stitching. 2. Take the start tail and lay it on top of the end tail. Make sure the top tail is several inches away from (shorter than) where you stopped stitching. Make a mark with a marking pencil, or place a pin into the end tail even with the end of the start tail. Make sure that both tails are laid out smooth and taut, no fullness in either. 3. Lift both tails off the quilt edge and unfold the pressed edge. 4. Turn the start tail over toward you so that the right side is facing down to the right side of the end tail. The OUTSIDE edge should be parallel to the pin (or mark). Line up the end of the start tail even with the outside edge of the end tail. (Using a pin or clamp to hold some of the quilt out of the way will reduce bulk and tension in the area while you work.) 5. Pin. Draw a line or pin on a 45 degree line from the upper left to the lower right corner. Stitch along this line. 6. Lay the sewn binding out flat, allowing it to fold naturally. Unclamp or unpin the quilt. Check to make sure the seam is laying properly and that the binding is the correct length. If measured correctly, it should lay nice and flat. If not, remove the stitching and redo. 7. Trim the seam to 1/4" and press to one side. 8. Stitch the binding down to complete the final side. Curved Bindings Use the same technique for curved bindings as well. Just cut your strips on the bias so they will easily curve around your edge. Also, see tip "Bindings-Scalloped" for directions on this type of finis

Hugs and Kisses Quilt

Materials

2-1/2 yards total of assorted bright prints for blocks and appliqués
1-1/3 yards of pink plaid for border
1/2 yard of purple print for binding
2-7/8 yards of backing fabric
51x54" of quilt batting
1 yard of lightweight fusible web

Finished quilt: 45x48-1/4"

Quantities specified for 44/45"-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. All measurements include a 1/4" seam allowance. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut Fabrics

To make the best use of your fabrics, cut the pieces in the order that follows. Cut the border strips the length of the fabric (parallel to the selvage).

Click on "Download This Project" to download the full-size patterns. To use fusible web for appliquéing, complete the following steps.

1. Lay the fusible web, paper side up, over the patterns. Use a pencil to trace the patterns the number of times indicated in cutting instructions, leaving 1/2" between tracings. Cut out each piece roughly 1/4" outside the traced lines.

2. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, press the fusible web shapes onto the backs of the designated fabrics; let cool. Cut out the shapes on the drawn lines. Peel off the paper backings.

From assorted bright prints, cut:
1 -- 16-1/2x6-1/2" rectangle for kisses appliqué foundation
1 -- 12-1/4x6-1/2" rectangle for hugs appliqué foundation
8 -- 4-3/4x6-3/4" rectangles for large heart appliqué foundations
6 -- 6-1/4x6-1/2" rectangles for daisy appliqué foundations
5 -- 4-3/4x6-1/2" rectangles for small heart appliqué foundations
15 -- 5x4-3/4" rectangles for star appliqué foundations
20 -- 3-3/4x4-1/4" rectangles for X and spiral appliqué foundations
1 -- 3-1/2x6-3/4" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 8x6-1/2" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 7-1/2x6-1/2" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 6x6-1/2" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 5-1/2x6-1/2" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 3x6-1/2" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 3-1/2x4-3/4" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 3x4-3/4" rectangle for filler block
1 -- 1-1/2x4-3/4" rectangle for filler block
2 -- 5x4-1/4" rectangles for filler blocks
15 of Pattern A
5 of Pattern B
6 each of patterns C and D
10 each of patterns E and F
8 of Pattern G
1 each of the following letters: e, g, h, i, k, and u
4 of the letter S

From pink plaid, cut:
2 -- 4-1/2x45-1/2" border strips
2 -- 4-1/2x40-3/4" border strips

From purple print, cut:
5 -- 2-1/2x42" binding strips

Appliqué the Foundations

1. Referring to the Quilt Assembly Diagram, arrange the appliqué shapes on the designated bright print foundations. Fuse in place. Using color-coordinating thread, machine-stitch around the appliqué shapes with a short, narrow zigzag stitch.

Assemble Quilt Center

1. Referring to the Quilt Assembly Diagram, lay out the appliquéd foundations and the filler blocks in horizontal rows.

2. Sew together the pieces in each row. Press the seam allowances in each row in one direction, alternating the direction with each row.

3. Join the rows to make the quilt center. Press the seam allowances in one direction. The pieced quilt center should measure 37-1/2x40-3/4", including the seam allowances.

Add the Border

Sew a pink plaid 4-1/2x40-3/4" border strip to each side edge of the pieced quilt center. Press the seam allowances toward the border. Then add a pink plaid 4-1/2x45-1/2" border strip to the top and bottom edges of the pieced quilt center to complete the quilt top. Press the seam allowances toward the border.

Complete the Quilt

1. Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing.

2. Quilt as desired. Linda Lum DeBono machine-stitched the quilt in a free-motion design.

3. Use the purple print 2-1/2x42" strips to bind the quilt.

Christmas Wreath

Quilt for Kelly?

Kelly requested to make this picture into a quilt.