Y-seam construction

Y-seam construction is used when 3 seams meet in 1 place in the quilt block, forming a “Y”. The example below includes 2 diamond shapes and a triangle which is sewn to each diamond.

1. Mark small dots at the seam line corners on all 3 pieces to be joined.
Mark dots.



Mark dots.

2. Pin and stitch the first seam, stopping your stitches just before entering the dot, and then backstitching. Stitch up to the dot, as close to it as possible. (Make your stitch length smaller, if necessary.) Open the pieces. Finger press the seam allowance away from the seam of the next piece to be added.




Pin and stitch.

3. To join the third piece, line up the corner dots and stitch as before, backstitching before entering the dot. Do not stitch into the previous seam allowance. Open the pieces.

Pin and stitch.


4. Stitch the remaining seam, ending just short of the dot at the “Y”. Open and press.


From Mastering Precision Piecing

This method is described in Mastering Precision Piecing, by Sally Collins.

- From the Tech Editors

How to mark designs on borders

I found this tutorial on http://www.dreamweavers-quilts.com/quilt-epiphany/2009/03/13/marking-border-quilting-designs/. I wanted to remember this process to make future quilts easier to mark. This is the Swanky quilt, which is about 24″ x 29″ and the border stencil is 2″ wide. For a first try at this method of border marking, use a small-ish quilt, so that the borders aren’t really long. Here’s my slap-dash method for border marking:

Mark a 45° diagonal line in each border corner, and a line in the middle of each side.






Lay the stencil on the border (start with a short side on the quilt) to get a guesstimate idea about how the design will fit. This stencil came pretty close to fitting well on this border, but the stencil was just a bit to short to really fill the space from the diagonal line to the middle line on the border.


Start marking in the center of the border, centering one of the stencil motifs on the center line you drew on the border. Mark the first “repeat” of the stencil design.

Since the stencil is actually a bit short to fill this space, I moved the stencil about 1/16″ to the right (toward the corner) before marking the next repeat, to add in some length to the design so that it will fill the space better. You can see in this picture how much the stencil was moved after each repeat was marked. The design will now fill the space and turn the corner in a visually pleasing way.



To mark the longer side, lay the stencil on the border and match the corner design at the diagonal line.


Take a look at where the stencil design will fall at the middle line of the border, and decide how best to mark the design so that it flows well and looks continuous. In the example, the design ends at a fairly odd spot, kind of in the middle of the repeat.

To fit the border, the design will either need to be lengthened the same way it was for the first side, or shorten the design by about the same amount. Since the design was lengthened on the first side, do the same for the second side, to keep things as consistent as possible. The design will not meet in the center of the longer side of the quilt at the same place as it did on the short side, but as long as the design flows together, it’s not a problem.

Begin marking at the corner and mark toward the center line, moving the stencil toward the center line slightly between each design repeat. I moved the stencil about 1/8″ between each repeat this time, so that the design would fill the longer space and end at a logical place in the middle of the border.


To fill in the blank spaces from the stencil and connect all the lines, make the lines flow together smoothly, redrawing them slightly if necessary. Mark all the borders of the quilt so that they match and the design flows continuously around the quilt.